I can't contribute yet but will do as soon as I get my copy. Basically I figure it'd be a good idea to have a nice selection of tips on how to put in some quick laps as well as how to set up the game and use all of its features.

If you've got anything at all you think other people might find useful then post it here and if we can get a decent selection together I'll try and organise it either into a sticky topic here or maybe as a new section on the site.

I read on another site about the importance of tucking in a lot.

Seems to make a difference.

You can change how the rider actually rides. It's really amazing how the riders body position on the bike changes how each bike is ridden. I found that the bikes turn in and exit corners a little quicker because of my very aggressive riding style. I'm going to do a quick study on how handling is affected by style changes and then post my conclusions.

PS Tucking in under the windscreen makes an enormeous difference. When and where I do it though, has made the difference between winning and loosing a few races.

Those rider positions are adjustable when playing the Trophy mode only, right? I think I saw just generic positions under the arcade mode.

Has anyone seen or got the strategy guide yet? I've been calling around, but no luck.

Well apart from that DRZ400 sound bug I posted about (which is still hugely pissing me off) I'm loving the game even more the more I play it.
I like how quick it is to get bikes, instead of the whole GT earning money thing. Here, you just complete a mission (typically passing an opponent and staying ahead for 10 seconds) and get awarded a bike, which you can then use in full race series. Nice.

Those rider positions are adjustable when playing the Trophy mode only, right? I think I saw just generic positions under the arcade mode.

Has anyone seen or got the strategy guide yet? I've been calling around, but no luck.

Yep - pre-ordered it along with the game. It's like all the others, unless you have never driver a car/riden a bike, they offer nothing to actually improve your riding - but they do spell out requirements for unlocking and winning certain bikes etc.

There is also a complete list of bikes - I get them for the "coffee table" collection value as well.. :)

After a couple of races the one thing I would say is that the only view worth using is the first person one which seems to give the best feeling of speed as well as being easiest to use as you can get a better idea of where apexes, braking points etc are.

Edit: Welcome to the boards fish_bate. :)

I got the game a couple of days ago, here are a few tips:

1. When viewing the bike you can move the right anolog stick down to zoom in on bike.

2. Although it does not discribe it in the manual the left anolog stick up/down controls were the rider sits on the bike ie: push down and wheelie and push foward and endow. This can also be used the stablize the bike in a turn and get more thrust on exit.

Hope this helps

I got the game a couple of days ago, here are a few tips:

1. When viewing the bike you can move the right anolog stick down to zoom in on bike.

2. Although it does not discribe it in the manual the left anolog stick up/down controls were the rider sits on the bike ie: push down and wheelie and push foward and endow. This can also be used the stablize the bike in a turn and get more thrust on exit.

Hope this helps

Interesting about #2, I'll have to give that a go. Welcome to the forum. :)

The physics are amazing (way better than MotoGP 3) but some of the stoppies and wheelies that you can do are funny. Try pushing forward, while hard on the brakes, while flying down the last hill at the 'ring, while on a Gixxer doing a buck ninety!! The bike'll start flipping over end over end. :twisted:

The physics are amazing (way better than MotoGP 3) but some of the stoppies and wheelies that you can do are funny. Try pushing forward, while hard on the brakes, while flying down the last hill at the 'ring, while on a Gixxer doing a buck ninety!! The bike'll start flipping over end over end. :twisted:
:lol: Yep I've noticed it's possible to pull off some pretty spectacular crashes if you put your mind to it. ;) The AI really doesn't know what to do with wheelies - if you cross the finish line at the end of the race doing one it bins it straight away 9 times out of 10.

Great find on #2 Rockin...already improving by working this feature.

Howdy fish bate. Is this the same fish bate from GTP?

Hey, NoQuarter, what's up?! Great to see you like two wheels as well as four! ;)

BTW What's the deal with GTP telling us that we have to pay! Danm it! That pisses me off so much. I was heavily contributing to the GT (especially hybrids) scene on granturismo.com before GTPlanet was even created! If it wasn't for Kenji closing the site and selling the domain name, GTPlanet wouldn't have half the members they do. People built up a really tight community on GTPlanet and they chopped it up. I don't care how much it is. It could be twenty-five cents, and I still wouldn't pay. It's like leaving work to find out some company has created an enclosed community around your neighbourhood and say they want you to pay to get to your home.

AFAIK, fb, it's only pay for premium service (which eliminates the ads and gives you 10 times the PM's, etc.) It's still pretty much the premium Gran Turismo site, as far as information about the GT franchise. Personally, I still call the GTX (http://granturismox.net/vb/) home, though I'm pretty active at all the major GT sites. ;)

Back On Topic...

Maybe some of you can give me some tips here. I'm using the Pro settings in the Tourist Trophy mode. I may be over my head a bit, as far as controlling the rider, but I'm starting to approach the racing/driving line thinking more like a biker than a performance car driver.

When approaching the end of a high speed straight, will coming out of the tuck give some aero-braking assistance? If so, do I start braking and un-tuck at the same time? I'm assuming I should be applying equal front/rear brakes, as well as engine braking by downshifting...sure is a lot to think about when dropping from 160+ to turn into a 40 mph turn in.

Also, when I start the turn in, should I stay untucked and shift my weight forward? This should increase grip on the front, right? Tuck at the apex and begin to roll on the throttle?

Thanks for any suggestions/tips! 8O

When approaching the end of a high speed straight, will coming out of the tuck give some aero-braking assistance? If so, do I start braking and un-tuck at the same time? I'm assuming I should be applying equal front/rear brakes, as well as engine braking by downshifting...sure is a lot to think about when dropping from 160+ to turn into a 40 mph turn in.

Also, when I start the turn in, should I stay untucked and shift my weight forward? This should increase grip on the front, right? Tuck at the apex and begin to roll on the throttle?

Thanks for any suggestions/tips! 8O

My technique is basically to tuck in until the end of the straight as you would in real life and get out from the screen as soon as I go onto the brakes. If you're going into a corner at a nasty angle rather than head on it's very easy to be to hard on the front brake and find the rear wheel comes up and spins around to the side. It seems to me that if you get on the rear brake a split second before the front it will help avoid stoppies and generally keep the bike in shape as you go into the turn.

Whether you brake before the corner and go through it gradually building up the throttle or if you brake right to the apex is up to you and the best method probably depends what bike you're on. I have found that the bike turns in slower with the rear brake on and sometimes you can ease off it mid-corner to make sure you still hit the apex nicely.

Like you say it's good to be downshifting as much as possible at the same time, I usually downshift quite quickly as unlike in real life you don't need to worry about locking the rear wheel and it'll just bounce off the limiter for a second or two.

That's all just my opinion and not necessarily the best way of doing things though!

I like to go at a it a little bit more gradual. I release the tuck way before my brake marker. Then apply brakes and shift down, trying not to hit the limiter. It doesn't always work out if you like to overtake under braking. I give myself enough room that I can hammer the throttle right before the apex. This technique works really well with bikes that have a lot of torque. Like the Duc's and the Buell's. This way I can take advantage of the added acceleration coming out of the corner. Dom's way is great for the high strung four's. I noticed he said that he's been riding the CBR1000RR RM a lot lately. You need to keep that thing buzzing like crazy, coming out of the corners.

But, just like Dom said, riding style is very personal. There is no one right way to ride in TT, just like real life.

PS I tried replying to a thread once, on GTP, and it told me I had to be a premium member just to reply. I haven't been back there since.

Thanks guys! ;)

I finally had to bite the bullet, and switched back the Semi-Pro setting. As realistic as some of you say Pro is, it's just too much for someone like myself who is lacking in general riding skills. After I have more seat time, I'll switch back.

I can still shift the riders weight, and tuck/untuck, but I can concentrate more on hitting the braking points and the turn in points at proper speed.

What's working for me, on most high speed straights to turn entry is

1) Untuck and settle
2) Apply brake(s) and start downshifting
3) Release brake and turn in.
4) At the apex, start rolling on the throttle.
5) Tuck when nearly straight again (unless there is an immediate turn back)

If it's not as drastic a speed drop, and especially if it's a double apex, I'll maintain the tuck throughout the section.

I've finally memorized Valencia enough to be able to win some of the racing bikes. Also, my track knowledge from GT4 is starting to pay off, now that I am adjusting for the difference in the bike racing line.

Having fun! 8O

I use only the buttons, old school style I guess. Never could get the hang of those analog sticks. The buttons work fine for me. Have not tried pro mode yet, but it looks like it changes the way the brakes work (separate buttons for front/rear brakes).

I spend a lot of time in practice mode learning the tracks. This is where the ghost comes in handy, as you can see yourself making mistakes in the corners and learn from them. You will find the fast lines by racing yourself. When you cannot beat your ghost, move to a faster bike and start all over. Pretty soon you will be really flying.

Finding the rhythm of the track, learning your braking points, and concentration are what this game is about.

I'm definitely getting smoother, which I think is a real key on the bikes. In the cars, you can get away with more and still bust out a fast lap, but as some of you r/l bikers know, there is little "forgiveness" on two wheelers ;)

The main problem I'm still having is the super slow chicanes, such as the end of Suzuka or the back stretch at Infineon...I still dump it about half the time. Probably most of that is attributable to "finger fumbles" with the DS2 more than anything (I'm a DownForcePro driver in GT4). I try to avoid cutting the chicanes (which fails you on the Challenges, anyway), so I guess it'll just take more practice.

Saw this at the PS boards. Haven't had a chance to try it yet, but apparently by pressing "Start" while your in your garage, you can change your riders height.

Saw this at the PS boards. Haven't had a chance to try it yet, but apparently by pressing "Start" while your in your garage, you can change your riders height.

Interesting. :) I remember choosing a height when I started the game, but didn't know you could change it at all. I wonder if there's any benefit to being a racing midget/giant. :think:

Interesting. :) I remember choosing a height when I started the game, but didn't know you could change it at all. I wonder if there's any benefit to being a racing midget/giant. :think:

not sure either, but would think that being shorter might give ya a little better center of gravity, and shorter legs making it able to lean the bike more. But then again, might not make a difference at all lol

Kevin Schwanz proved you can be tall and lanky and have legs that hang all gangly out in the airstream and still be a 500GP winner.. ;)

But I am sure being a light weight helps on the small bikes.. I know I put on 40lbs and that impacted my TZR250 quite a bit... my fat arse is probably what destroyed the motor ;) hehe

so, how do you tune in/out understeer/oversteer with bound/rebound?