basically, i set all my bikes at 7 on the spring rate, front and rear. then i do 3 in the front for preload, 6 in the back. rebound stays at 6, and i put the compression at 4 front and back, to start out. each bike will react differently to different adjustments, but in general, there a few things to follow.

1, the higher the spring rate, the more corner clearance youll get. softer bikes handle bumps great, until you get leaned over, where the softness will allow the bike to bottom out on bumps.

2, the preload will not help with the problem stated in #1. this affects mostly the attitude of the bike. raising the preload in the front will give you more rake, through raising the height where the bike sits on the forks. lowering it will make the bike turn in sharper. there is a balance to be found between the preload and the overall spring rate. in the rear it works just the opposite as the front....as a side note, to much preload in the back will make you bike really loose going into a corner, or mid corner when you let off the gas to adjust your line. this is caused by the shock topping out, because the preload makes the bike sit at the top of the shock's stroke.

3, the rebound damping is almost always set stronger than the compression damping. i usually set the rebound about twice as hard as the compression. rebound will help your bike hold a line, and also keep a lot of quick movement, from the rider or the bike, in check.

sometimes a problem will seem to come from the front, when it is really coming from the back...an example is while leaned over, along a fast left sweeper (110-120mph, think t3 on GVS...)the bike hits a small but pronounced bump mid-corner. the bike gives a small slap to the right, then the front washes out. the problem is probably the rear having not enough rebound, and the preload being to high, or the spring rate too high. the rear grips at first as it compresses, and then the spring pushes the rear back up, and the rebound is too weak to hold it from topping out the shock, the rear tire breaks traction and send the rear of the bike towards the inside of the corner. this feels like the front is washing out, and sometimes it can due to the weight transfer.

ok...enough of me talking...i have to go eat dinner...hope this helps some.
:)
if you have any specific questions, i'll see if i can answer them.

thanks ... most of my problems with bumps comes from the bike wanting to stand up mid corner from the front bottuming out. i generally just up the spring rate until the bike stop standing up.

im not sure if a ride height/preload at 3/6 will work for the ducati. while running the hsr round, i found the bike very heavy feeling and resistint to inputs while running 4/5. perhapes the rear was too low?

so, how do you do know which is causing the problem in that last pragraph.

[edit - callaghan: you should make a set up thread in the main tt forum like -sr-s nordschliefe thread :) ]

the set-ups will be different from track to track. you could probably go pretty radical on the ducati as i have found it to be very stable. the trick at hsr is the banked corners arent that smooth, and the bike has to be soft enough to absorb bumps, but stiff enough not to bottom out. ill try a few laps with the ducati, and see if i can recommend a setting base for you.

the example above is what was happening to me on the r1. at first i thought it was the front just not having the grip, i thought the compression on the front was too high, but when i upped the rebound in the back the problem went away. usually i see if there is a trend in the way a bike handles, like if it has the same problem in every corner, or just some of them. any similarites in the corners should produce similar results. but when there was only two corners where i consistantly lost rear, even though there were other high speed corners, i looked at each corner on the replay, and watched how the bike wernt through the corner. then made adjustments to help compensate for the problem.

im curious about the preload because i had to increase the preload because the zx-10r rm was dragging its fairing all over deep forest until increased it.

deep forest has a lot of corners that really load the bike mid corner. if you take a slightly different line, you can get around those issues. i dont think the setup will cure that problem. it will definitely help though. im curious though as why the preload helped the zx10...it will raise the ride height a little, but the spring rate w/c/should help the issue more so.

upon further investigation, i have found that the zx 10 likes to drag its fairing/pegs all ove the place. i have lowsided that bike more times than i care to admit.

haha ... yeah, the zx10 is a low side machine :lol:

thanks, dom :)

i think the zx 10 would be a great bike if it didnt low side everywhere, and didnt wheelie like crazy. it lifts the front at 150mph...motogp bikes, maybe, but a modified zx10?!? i dunno...

its funny, i think in this game, the preload just determines the ride height. may have a small affect on the suspension, but i think its mostly for ride height, and adjusting the attitude of the bike. i.e., dropping the forks through the yokes.

yeah, i miss read preload as ride height specially since the game refers to it as ride height in the information screen.

callaghan - what have you done with riding form or do you not adjust it track to track?

i usually adjust the form to the bike. some bikes like to be leaned over a little more (the ducati comes to mind), and others you really need to hang off. (like the r1, or at least i do.)

i am not really that sure about what the rider form adjustments really do, but i have a few opinions. i think the elbow angle (arm angle) help with flicking the bike on its ear quicker. i know the seat position, whether back or foward, makes a difference in how well the rear grips coming out of the corner. further back gets you more traction, but the bike wants to tuck the front under power easier. i also think that if you put your knee further out, then you gain a little time to catch a low side. ive pushed the front on the yamaha sooooo far...ive slid both tyres before, and was able to pick it up before it was totally gone.

i dont really adjust for the track. i might do a little leg angle, or moving back and forth a little, but not much.

callaghan - what have you done with riding form or do you not adjust it track to track?

If you want to try mine, PM me, I have no problems with that (same goes for you callaghan or anyone else)

callaghan - i thought max lean angle was the same no matter how you tweaked your form, just the body position?

-sr- sure, id love to give it a try :)

well, in real life, your max lean angle will be when the hard parts start grounding out. however, you can gain speed and turn quicker (more corner speed) by hanging off farther, because your weight shifts the center of gravity off the bike toward the inside of the corner. this stands the bike up a little. i think if you choose the lean body default in the game, then you can go faster for a given circuit than the lean bike default.

what can you adjust on your form/set up to get more oversteer at apex to exit? thats my most common problem. ive been playing with the buel rm recently and with its torque is not very slow, but, it feels heavy on turn in. thoughts?

fwiw - i could probably 7'05 with the buel. mmmm ... feel the torque :D

i like to have the guy ride the front, but that mostly because ive been riding the yamaha a lot, and they like to have the front rode hard. ill send you a pm nes.

heres one for you: cbr1000rrw
problems: occasion at apex the front will surfer from a small slide then start griping again (too much repreload?)
the bike moves around (a lot) on most bumps, even stops turning in some places and im presuming its tt's "wont turn because the front forks are bottumed out" thing (suspesion too soft? make the front springs harder and increase dampners stiffness?)

track is of course, nordschliefe ... haha.

when i get home, ill give it a shot. if the compression is too stiff (uh-huh-hu-huh-huh, i said stiff) then it will not absorb bumps, but rather, it will bounce over them (like a small slide while leaned over.) usually a small adjustment is called for, like maybe decrease the "bound" setting by 1, and try again.

Here is my setup for the Tiger 1000RR bike for Nurburgring:

Spring Rate: F-5 R-6
Preload: F-5 R-6
Shock(Rebound): F/R-6
Shock(Bound): F/R-6

Brake balance: F/R-6

Tires: F-Medium R-Soft

1st: 5.347
2nd: 3.560
3rd: 2.581
4th: 1.964
5th: 1.569
6th: 1.315
Final: 2.100

If you would like to try my rider form, let me know. I have two of them that I use. Both are similar. Only diffences are the seat positions.

why do you us a medium front? wouldnt that just add understeer due to the rear tyre having more grip than the front?

not necessarily. sometimes the front is too aggressive, and then small slip angles are needed to maintain a balance. once they are both heated up, the medium may have marginally less grip than the soft, but both should have enough grip to where hard parts drag before the tyre gives. it will be noticed mostly while braking, as in not being able to brake quite as hard, and the rear will have a lot of grip coming out of the corner. to compensate for the front pushing under corner exit, you would adjust the suspension set up. some actually like it this way.

so, with 2 championships done, have we learned anything new about forms? i personally havent done much form tweaking because of the pita of exiting the race to go all the way back to the garage. id rather ride around a short coming or tweak the bike set up.

i think the form is a little vague in what each item does...like the head angle doesnt seem to do much. the torso roll doesnt seem to do much for me either.

I Found this on another Forum a while back but some of you may have it already - but thought i would share it ;)

TOURIST TROPHY SET UP’S

Head Roll Angle: increase for manueverability (man) / decrease for speed. recomended (rec'd) near 15.
Head Pitch Angle: raise for speed/ lower for man
Torso Roll Angle: raise for man / lower for speed
Torso Yaw Angle: raise for man / lower for speed
Body Lean: raise for speed / lower for man
Arm Angle: rec'd to leave it in the 50s
Seat Position: rec'd to leave it near 0
Lateral Slide: increase for speed / decrease for man. rec'd near 15
Vertical Slide: increase for speed / decrease for man. rec'd near 0
Leg Angle: increase for speed / decrease for man. rec'd near 40
Body Lean: increase for speed / decrease for man

These are from the book. It’s a great starting point then based on the track and your bike setup you can go from there.


Mabe we can prove or disprove the guide on the next Series :P

For what it's worth, I notice a big difference when I change lateral slide and leg angle. Reducing lateral slide tends to introduce a training wheel effect whereby your maximum lean angle is reduced, but you can toss the bike from side to side hard and run into a "wall" of lean, reducing the chance of dumping the bike.

Leg angle either increases or decreases the lean rate. Reducing it will noticeably speed up your lean in and lean out, vice versa.

Though I'm not entirely sure, I think arm angle has a direct effect on throttle rate. The bike seems to accelerate a bit better with a reduced arm angle; whether that's due to aerodynamics or better arm leverage I don't know, but I surmise it has a direct effect on acceleration and traction control in pro mode.

Uncreated

thats what funny about this. everything is either vague enough that you cant really tell what it does, or its just something that is perceived, and not much of an actual adjustment is being made. i know that when you do adjust a lot of things, the bike does respond different, but adjusting one thing by itself, i cant really tell what does what, it just kinda gives me an idea or two.

The only time I've ever changed my rider form was when I joined the TTWS and realized I needed to do whatever I could to compete with you guys. Since then that's worked enough for me and tampering with it would probably only have adverse effects.

Bike setup seems to always work its way to all suspension settings at 1, brakes at 10/8 and gearing I'll sort out after a few experimental laps to find out what top speed I'm gonna be hitting on the track, then go down a couple of notches on the auto gearing and just put up 6th gear to what I've found is my top speed.

i don't really play with suspension a lot some how i don't really gooooo faster with suspension ajustment too much of a pain( SIMPLE effectice mod = all my race bikes 4 FRONT , 6 REAR Brake ajustment )

okay, question - im trying to get my tz250 below a 7'03 or at least a clean 7'03. but, the front end moves around a lot until i softened the rear end up. then that causes understeer at the exit of corners.

the front end will still randomly kick up at moments and she still moves around a bit more than id like. plus the rear end moves around a lot landing from a jump even when i land cleanly.

okay, question - im trying to get my tz250 below a 7'03 or at least a clean 7'03. but, the front end moves around a lot until i softened the rear end up. then that causes understeer at the exit of corners.

the front end will still randomly kick up at moments and she still moves around a bit more than id like. plus the rear end moves around a lot landing from a jump even when i land cleanly.

My humble opinion is to try to set the preload to lower number at the front, and higher number at rear. You gain some extra weight on front, so it'll become more stabile. For this track and this bike I set it up to 4 front and 8 rear. Try it maybe it'll help. ;)
Stay tuned

Question : Does the bike wallow or shake it's head - and is this happening mid corner or is the bike shaking it's head out of corners and over bumps

Answers - If bike wallows in corners try setting rear rebound slightly higher

If front end is shaking mid corner increase front rebound

If front end shaking on exit and over bumps try setting front preload and damping lower

Hope these help - mabe Calla can confirm these tweeks as I originally found them in a document on a bike site giving general advice on bike set up :)

so lower the bound and increase the rebound.

For rebound, the game says that decreasing the number increases the rebound damping force, and increasing the number decreases the rebound damping force. But for bound, increasing the number increases the bound damping force, and decreasing it decreases the bound damping force.

So which number needs to be higher to get more force on the expansion side than the compression side?

Anyone?

I understand it is best to have more rebound damping than bound damping, so that the wheels spring back to the road faster than they compress, is this the correct theory?

If it is then I would reduce the rebound number to increase the rebound damping force, and then I would decrease the bound damping by reducing that by the same amount, but then the numbers are equal?

Any help appreciated

The game isn't correct if it advises lowering a value to harden or quicken your suspension's rebound. My own rule of thumb is to set rebound no more than one notch above my bound values (if set higher, bike tends to bounce on landing for big jumps and tires tend to skip on moguls). For instance my suspension, while unusually soft, are 2F/3B for rebound and 1F/2B for bound. I use that for most every track. I also rarely go above the midway point front and rear for springs.


Uncreated

Hey everybody. I just found this site when I went on Google and did a search for "Tourist Trophy setups". A riding group I run with is setting up an off season Tourist Trophy competition (certain track a week and one week to post up a screen shot with your best time in practice mode) the kicker is that you have to use the same bike every time and it has to be 600cc or smaller and an I4 engine. Everybody has picked race replica 600's and I thought it would be fun to try and beat some peoples times with the 1984 Suzuki GSXR400 RM.

Obviously this will be a challenge but i think that if I get a good setup I might be able to surprise a few people. That is where this thread (and you guys) comes in. I'm pretty good at TT 90% complete but I've done it all without really tweaking suspensions.

So, does anybody have some setup suggestions for the aforementioned bike. The first track is trial mountain if that helps.

Any suggestions?

For fun I'll post up my "Team Press Release"

We were assigned team names and countries by our most prominent qualities. Since I'm Puerto Rican I got pegged with. Team TropicalDelight as my team name. So I ran with it.

Team Tropicaldelight Press Release

http://www.jdelgado.net/img/PR_Yabucoa.jpg

After realizing their Bacardi Co-sponsorship had come through at the last minute on Saturday, Team TD woke up this morning and realized that the Bacardi induced haze of the last 5 days had made them miss the first half of the week. No worries, Team TD was so sure in their bike selection that they had slotted the first half of the week for decorating the bike in it's new livery. Having lost all that time the team slapped a few respective stickers on the bike for the press release. Without further adieu here it is!!!

The 2007-08 Team Tropicaldelight 1984 Suzuki GSXR400 RM!!!

http://www.jdelgado.net/img/team_td.jpg

When asked if the fact that the only available bike that San Juan Suzuki was willing to lease to Team TD was the 1984 GSXR400 RM was going to hamper his title assault. Team rider and Yabucoa native "El Borracho" or "El" as he prefers to be called responded as he hopped on his bike to go for a sighting lap.

http://www.jdelgado.net/img/el_borracho.jpg

"Diis is no worry for me. Deese madikas es no challenge, mi Suzuki es fastest in all of Puerto Rico, they have no chance." And shouted, "VIVA PUERTO RICO!!!" as he rode off.

Team TD plans on posting it's first lap times later this evening.

http://www.jdelgado.net/img/PR_Yabucoa.jpg

and which is that site if i may ask?

Wiscon Sportbikes (http://www.wisconsinsportbikes.net)